The Pocket Furnace

    If you're into bladesmithing (or blade cutting, if you aren't forging your blades) you've no doubt noticed that it helps to harden your blades so they don't tie themselves in knots when you use them. Steel hardening is a complex and technical topic that I will not delve into here. However, it is required that you have a good heat source (furnace) no matter what sort of steel you're hardening and no matter how you intend to go about it. Now, a big coal burning brick hearth isn't something that every average Joe can set up in his backyard. If hardening blades of moderate size (daggers and throwing knives) is your game you can use a propane torch to heat your steel. This is, by all accounts, a pain in the ass. If you want an easier way to more or less evenly heat a small blade you can build a so-called Pocket Furnace and do it in your very own basement.

    You will require some basic materials for this project. First and foremost is a propane torch with a blowtorch (standard) type tip and a propane bottle to match. These are common items at any hardware store. MAPP torches may also work. A MAPP/Oxy torch is probably a bad idea, but if you had one of those you wouldn't need a furnace in the first place. You will also need one empty coffee can or other large container. What you use is irrelevant only so long as it's round and metal, big enough to fit your blade in, and of a disposition for you to knock a hole in it. Finally, some lava rocks (for gas grills) and a scrap piece of metal window screen material, and a normal rock or chunk of slate about as wide as your can will be needed. For the lava rocks, get the 'natural' and not the pressed and formed ones. For the window screen, make sure it's as wide in one direction as your can is tall and make sure it isn't nylon, which will at first smell very bad and second melt away when you fire up your furnace.
    Begin by punching a hole just large enough for the tip of your propane torch to fit through in the side of the can. Where you punch the hole depends on what you plan to use for furnace for. If you're going to be doing throwing knives punch the hole near the bottom of the can so the tip of the knife (inserted point first in the can) will be heated. If you plan to do normal knives you wish to heat the entire blade and the hole should be made nearer the center. You can use a drill for this if you're not some kind of luddite. Otherwise a can opener or big nail will serve you nicely.
    The reason you bought natural lava rocks is pressed lava rocks are all the same size: Namely, too large. Since we're building this furnace small we will need small rocks. There will be a myriad of both large and small rocks in your bag. Weed out the ones that are about the size of marbles and set them aside. If you run out of small rocks you can make more small rocks out of the large ones by employing the services of your driveway and a hammer. You're going to need to fill a large portion of the can with rocks. Gather a bunch.
    The construction begins. Roll your window screen into a cylinder with a diameter of no more than two inches. The one I use is one and one quarter inches. Place it in the center of your can and fill the gap between the screen and the walls of the can with lava rocks. If you aren't too horribly uncoordinated you will wind up with a lining of rocks retained by a piece of window screen with a nice hollow in the middle. Your furnace is now ready for use.
    To use it, just fire up the torch and stick the nozzle about a half an inch into the hole in the can. With any luck the flame will not go out and your furnace will begin to heat up. Put the rock over the top of the can leaving a one inch open gap or so to retain the heat that would otherwise escape from the top of the furnace. Let it heat up for a few minutes before you throw in the blade. Then simply insert your blade, point first, into the hollow in the furnace. Replace the heat retaining rock the best you can (the end of your knife sticking out of the can may get in the way). Given time a large portion of the blade will be glowing and ready for quenching. Take it out with some tongs or pliers and have at it, quickly and before the steel cools.
    Caveats. Obviously, being metal and plugged into a propane torch your can will be inclined to get very hot. It shouldn't melt, but the following stipulations apply: First, it would stand to reason that if the furnace can make your blade hot enough for hardening it can make itself hot enough to cause pain. Do not touch the can while the furnace is running and give it a good ten minutes before you try to pick it up after you turn it off. Second, the can will get more than hot enough to scorch countertops and wood, so do not place it on any of these surfaces if you value them.
    After running a few blades your window screen might degrade. If your screen is looking sorry just replace it. If you have a rock so close to the hole in the can that it extinguishes the torch's flame every time you plug it into the can just push it out of the way with any handy solid object.
    The thought of heating large blades has crossed my mind more than once. In general you can't heat a blade much longer than four inches in a furnace like this. Even if you do find a can tall enough to fit anything larger in the heat will be spread too much and the blade will not be heated sufficiently. Perhaps the enterprising bladesmith could add additional propane torches in different locations to power a larger furnace.

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